How to Use a Straight Razor

Before You Start — Safety Essentials

• →Never use a straight razor on clients with active skin infections, lesions, or broken skin.
• →Single-use disposable blades are the professional standard — never use the same blade on two clients.
• →Always wear gloves during shaving services per state board requirements.
• →A styptic pencil or powder must be within reach before you begin.
• →Check blade sharpness by cutting a single hair off your arm from 2 inches away. If it does not shear cleanly, replace the blade.

Straight Razor Shave — Step by Step

1. 1
   Prepare the skin with hot towel or pre-shave oil

   Hot towel for 2–3 minutes opens pores and softens the hair. Pre-shave oil reduces friction. Skipping prep is the primary cause of razor burn.
2. 2
   Apply shave cream with a brush

   Work the cream into a lather directly on the skin with circular motions. The brush lifts the hair follicle upward, making the shave cleaner and reducing ingrown risk.
3. 3
   Hold the razor at 30 degrees to the skin

   30 degrees is the sweet spot. Flatter than 20 degrees and you are scraping with the spine; steeper than 45 and you risk cuts. The razor should glide, not dig.
4. 4
   Stretch the skin taut ahead of the blade

   Use your free hand to stretch the skin in the opposite direction of your razor stroke. A flat, taut surface shaves clean; loose skin folds catch the blade.
5. 5
   Work with the grain on the first pass

   First pass is always with the grain (in the direction the hair grows). This removes 80% of the hair with minimum irritation.
6. 6
   Re-lather for second pass across or against grain

   Second pass can go across the grain (for most clients) or against the grain (for clients who want maximum closeness and have tough skin). Always re-lather.
7. 7
   Post-shave: cold towel, alum, aftershave

   Cold towel closes pores. Alum block stops micro-bleeding. Aftershave balm (not alcohol splash) for sensitive skin.